As you know, everything new is a well-forgotten old. So now we are talking about a novelty, which was once very fashionable in noblemen's estates, about a lively gazebo.
This kind of garden architecture requires an investment of not small forces and great patience. The final result will not be visible at once, but the gardener who has reached his goal will be rightfully rewarded. The first results will be noticeable in the most favorable combination of circumstances after 4 years of work, but even if nature, weather and circumstances turn against, the stubborn toiler of the garden will be able to proudly demonstrate his work no later than 8 years after starting work.
So, to begin work on the construction of a living gazebo is with the definition of their wishes. It is necessary to choose which trees will form the arbor from their trunks and branches. The choice of specific plants depends on the size of the gazebo to be grown.
Conditionally, there is the following division:
- medium height.
You can use any bushes and dwarf trees, it is important that they do not grow very high. The seedlings need to be taken about 1 m high, without low-lying side branches. In the future, it will be easier to work on the formation of the crown in the right way.
Then you need to choose a place for planting. The best option would be an open space, fully lit by the sun. Well, if the soil at the selected site was fertile, and the groundwater table at a depth of at least 1.5 meters.
After choosing a place, you need to mark out the position of the future structure, indicating the places of planting of trees with pegs and connecting them with twine.
The construction of the pergola (the foundation that supports the shape of the future arbor) is the next and very crucial stage. To a large extent, it affects the success of further work. After the formation of the arbor, the framework will need to be dismantled, this will be the completion of the work. In the future, the gazebo will require only care.
Metal parts must be covered with a primer, and wood treated with an antifungal compound. Required for the frame gazebo materials:
- square beam of 100 mm;
- corners of metal, 1.2 meters each;
- a bar section of 50 mm;
- self-tapping screws.
The order of assembling the frame is simple, but it requires accuracy.
Live gazebo with your own hands: step by step instruction
- The corners are hammered into the ground in places designated for installing the main supports to a depth of 1 m, in pairs, so as to hold the wooden support. When dismantling the frame, the corners are much easier to get out of the ground than digging out concrete screeds, which are usually fixed by various frames.
- It requires a strictly vertical installation of the pillars, otherwise the gazebo will "deplete" later. Vertically mounted poles are joined by joists, horizontally, fixing them from the ground by 40 cm, and so every 40 cm to the desired height.
- Trees should be planted simultaneously, in the middle of the distance between the posts, exactly along the line connecting the pillars. All trees, immediately after planting, you need to water (at least 10 liters of water per seedling). Be sure to water 1 time a week, until the appearance of new leaves, and then weekly. In the second year it will be possible to water only in very dry weather, since the trees will already have a sufficiently developed root system to feed on groundwater.
- To begin the formation of the crown of trees, it is necessary to prune their tops at a level of approximately 70-90 cm, for active development of lateral branches.
- In the spring of the tree new branches will be given, some of which will assume the role of the top. This branch must be attached to the pergola so that it tends strictly upward, and the two side branches on the right and left must be attached to the first horizontal crossbar of the pergola. The remaining branches can be allowed to grow as they please.
- In autumn, the top should be cut again, leaving 10-15 cm above the level of the second crossbar.
- In the second year, the trees will again be allowed a new peak on last year's crown, again it needs to be fixed vertically, like the last time. All the other fresh shoots cut at a length of 15-20 centimeters, and two side branches again to fix, but to the second crossbar of the frame.
- In autumn, shorten the top to 15-20 cm above the third crossbar of the frame.
- This order of pruning and fastening the leading branches should be repeated every year until the trees grow to the desired height. Over time, the lateral branches will begin to intertwine, form the outlined form of the arbor.
- In spring it is necessary to trim twigs, which come from branches of the second order. It is also necessary to remove dried and diseased branches. A few years later the trunks become stiff, and the branches will be intertwined, independently supporting the form. The supporting structure can be dismantled. For greater safety of the living arbor, it is better to cut the base of the frame and extract it from the interlacing of the branches in parts.
Let's consider one more variant of a living arbor from a vine on a photo
Completed arbor requires constant care. It is necessary to cut the young growth every year, I continue to form the crowns, remove the dried branches, and treat the pavilion against pests.